P.O.O.F: Pilots Of Olfactive Families
There are select classes of fragrance families (AKA: olfactive families), that additionally dual as categories for styles, or structures of fragrance formulations. For example, yes — there is a citrus family —but no — there is no binding rubric to follow for a fragrance to be formulated as a “citrus styled” or “citrus featured” blend. On the flip side, yes — there is a fougère family — and yes — there are formulation rules to be followed in order for a fragrance to be deemed formulated in the fougère fragrance style. I call these specific olfactive families that dual as fragrance formulation styles “pilots”, for my own comprehension and memorization. Here, we’ll discover three olfactive familial “pilots” and their requirements regarding fragrance creation.
First, we’ll go over the family that has ruled masculine-inspired creations for hundreds of years. The fougère family was born back in 1882 with the creation of the first fougère fragrance — Fougère Royale — which was developed by Paul Parquet, owner of Parisian company, Houbigant Parfum. The launch of Fougère Royale sensationalized the industry as no other formulation released before was reminiscent of it. Parquets’ formulation was truly a unique market disruptor. Key notes and concentrations were selected for the development of Fougère Royale, deeming both the techniques and inclusions for formulation and the olfactive family. A fougère formulation traditionally features citrus, spice, green, and wood notes. In order for a formula to be considered a fougère facet of fragrance, the formulation must include these notes. Common notes included in a fougère composition often include mandarin, grapefruit, coumarin, lavender, geranium, moss, and vetiver. Traditionally, vetiver, coumarin, lavender, geranium and oakmoss were selected in fougère creations, while modern day formulas often include synthetic reproductions of these notes, such as evernyl replacing natural oakmoss. Mainstream fougère creations popular in the market today include Dior’s Sauvage, Acqua di Parma’s Colonia Futura, and Versace’s Dylan Blue. Traditional fougères remind me of aftershaves and damp woods. Depending on the fragrance, I even enjoy wearing a fougère once and a while — if it leans away from the traditionally heavy, “grandfatherly” aura…which can be challenging as this is the essence of early-birthed fougères. Today, I like to lean towards formulas that showcase vetiver — a favorite wood note of mine brightened with florals and citrus.
Next pilot up: the chypre family. This category was born in the early 20th century, with the 1917 launch of Coty’s Chypre, developed by François Coty, and then notably Guerlain’s Mitsouko, created by Jacques Guerlain, which was released to market two years post Coty’s. The chypre category is a category that one either adores or loathes (I assume there are people out there who feel indifferent but, in my experiences, it is very clear of those who enjoy this category and those who do not). Chypres are an acquired olfactory preference. The facet of a Chypre formulation traditionally includes fruit, green, floral, and leather notes, while modernized creations include musk notes and notes to lighten up intensity. Commonly selected notes in the early days of chypres included rose, labdanum, patchouli, jasmine, bergamot and oakmoss. Chypres are intense, which are often why they are favored by select consumers. The chypre accord has been utilized as a foundational start point developing endless interpretations by perfumers. Often, a fragrance can be misunderstood to be other than a chypre facet without deeper inspection. Chypre formulations have been designed to appeal to women and men, alike the women’s classic born in 1971, Aromatics Elixir by Clinique and Ralph Lauren’s 1978, Polo Eau De Toilette. Modern chypres on the market today are found across many niche brands, say Amouage’s Interlude, green and earthy forward Eau Capitale by Diptyque, and one of my lovely cousin’s favorites (Hi Ange!), Mohave Ghost by Byredo. However, designer luxury brands have released chypre styled formulations previously, as of not much lately, such as Dior’s Gris Dior, Chloés Nomade with its kickoff of lychee, and notably, Narciso Rodriguez’s eau de toilette, For Her — a release that catapulted increased attention to the designer’s fragrance line and stamped its mark in the industry winning numerous awards in the years during and after its launch. It is not that the prestige designer houses have instantaneously stopped launching chypre fragrances, but in my research, I feel releases have slowed down drastically due to consumer preferences and trends. However, take Dior’s Gris Dior for instance, chypre formulas can be found in many designers’ fragrance offerings today. Perhaps some of your favorite designer chypre fragrances launched in past years, may be in your collection.
The last notable pilot to recognize is the character-rich oriental family. The oriental family in recent years has been renamed the amber family. Leaders of the industry have expressed the earlier title of the category to be derogatory, possessing vernacular that is out of touch in present society. The oriental family was named after the Orient — a region encompassing the continent of Asia, specifically Eastern, Western and Central Asia — the area in which the notes captured in an oriental accord were sourced and inspired from. I have learned that the new term can become confusing for newcomers closely inspecting the development of fragrance. The term oriental and amber may not be as fluid in synonymity with each other — current amber creations and new note advancements do not necessarily fall under the oriental category. I have come to understand both sides of the coin when it comes to the pros and cons of the renaming of the category, and I have learned of the category as both titles under numerous educators. A helpful article diving deeper into the category and its place on the market is shared below. The category started with what is argued to be the first perfume of its kind back in 1921 — Habanita by Molinard. Molinard Parfums is a French Maison that started in the mid 19th century, based in Grasse, France. Habanita reflected the era in which it was birthed — the Roaring Twenties — in both its formulation and utilization. Women were evolving in new ways of living and breathing their own freedoms and rights, from career opportunities, the momentous feat of the ability to vote, and in individual independence alike in fashion and sexual expression. The formula selected for Habanita featured traditionally masculine associated notes, such as vetiver, wrapped in florals to add a contrasted yet celebrative shine to its feminine counterparts. Further, the scent was first launched in tiny sachets for women to tuck into their cigarette packs, in order to mask the smell of tobacco (an idea I believe to be brilliant for today’s market). Soon after the launch of Habanita, other fragrances in the category blossomed alike Coty’s Emeraude and the infamous creation from Guerlain, Shalimar. The latter was beloved by many of the Old Hollywood starlets and the everyday woman of the 20th century. It is often regarded as the first fragrance for women belonging to the category due to its prevalent notoriety that remains strong in today’s market. I remember walking into one of the labs for a fragrance course at the Fashion Institute of Technology and the first thing I noticed was the ginormous replica bottle of Shalimar on top of one of the countertops. I think of it every time I reference the fragrance.
The category traditionally features notes of vanilla, warm spice, patchouli, and an inclusion of an amber accord. The category is very versatile as it can be layered with numerous facets, from citrus to floral, to fruit or green. Modern interpretations of the category include incorporations of gourmand notes and fresh spices replacing the traditionally warm. Designer fragrances offered today birthed in years past beholding the essence of the category include Saint Laurent’s Opium, Dior’s Hypnotic Poison, and Carolina Herrera’s original Good Girl.
Now you have learned the three “pilots” that dual not only as olfactive families but also as terms that regard a style of formulation.
MAKE IT MAKE SCENTS:
Do you own any fragrances or styles above? Are there ones you have multiples of, or perhaps none? Have you sampled any fragrances shared that you loathe or come to never stray from?
For the article I have mentioned earlier, see below.